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BG Algae, Good parameters, looking for fedback

1K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  CLBeerbower 
#1 ·
Ok, I will try and make it quick. Looking for where I am going wrong. Bottom line is I have BG algae and some BBA. Grows on plants, walls of tank, etc. The tank is lightly planted and I am pretty sure it is stunting the growth of the plants.

Setup: 25G tall tank, 2 goldfish, 2 SAE, 4 snails, heater set to 71 degrees, Fluvial C4 running zeo-carbon & poly foam pad, circulation pump. LED overhead light is on a timer for 8 hours a day. CO2 is from a paintball tank and has a powered actuator and also is on a timer. It comes on two hours prior to the light and goes off at the same time.

Additives/schedule:
twice a week each: N-4mL P-5mL K-5mL, Iron-3mL and Flourish-3mL. NPK on the same day, Iron on its own day and Flourish on its own day.

Water Parameters ( these are averages as things fluctuate a little):
PH 7.1 - 7.5
PO4 0.0 -.025
KH 7-8 ot 125-143
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
CO2 7-13. I know this is low and I am working to up the CO2, adjustment is touchey on solenoid
GH 255

Other: I am not the best about water changes and probably do 30-40% once a month. The poly pad is changed every other week and the carbon monthly.

Question is with the facts above what do I need to alter to reduce the amount of algae and help clear up the water a bit. I know it will never be 100%, but there is I know some things I can do better. Thanks for the advice as I really appreciate the forum and what it does for us newbies!
 
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#2 ·
More nitrates would help get rid of the BGA, or at least discourage it from coming back after you kill it. The BBA is usually caused by low or flucuating CO2 concentration - it needs to be the same every day when the lights are on. Reducing the light intensity also helps keep BBA away. What LED light fixture do you use?
 
#4 ·
Guys, sorry life caught up to me. I am using a FINNEX LED light that is pretty close to the water. It is a 20W unit that has two rows of LEDs and is pretty bright. The unit is on a timer and is left on for about 8 hours a day. the CO2 does cycle on and off. Should I keep it on all day and night? Even with the lights off?

I also see where there is a question about iron. I follow the bottle and do 3mL twice a week. Do you think I should cut that back?
 
#5 ·
CO2 needs to be about the same level every day, but it doesn't matter if you shut it off at night. It is what it is during the photoperiod that needs to be controlled. If you are doing your nitrate test correctly, and you really do have zero nitrate, you can have problems with very slow or no plant growth, as well as BGA. I suggest dosing about 50% more nitrate, and see if it helps Other people have other ideas, but that is what works for me.
 
#7 ·
It has always appeared to me that Seachem's Flourish line of fertilizers was designed for low light tanks. Their dosage recommendations have always seemed to be much too little for high light tanks. That tends to make me always recommend increasing the dosages when you use the Seachem dosage recommendations. The big flap now going on about whether or not we are dosing in excessive amounts, especially for trace mixes, has me wondering if I am right in my thinking, but for now I still think Seachem's dosages are too small.
 
#8 ·
I noticed this in the original post: Other: I am not the best about water changes and probably do 30-40% once a month. The poly pad is changed every other week and the carbon monthly.

What effect would zeo-carbon have on ferts, would it remove some? To deal with the bga I would recommend a blackout. Some recommend antibiotics - eurythromyacin I believe. I dont like to use chemicals myself.
 
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