I typically would use GH booster in place of K2SO4.
Since GH booster is 50% by volume K2SO4 anyhow.
I might add say 1/2 teaspoon of GH after a weekly water change
I might dose 1/4 teaspoon 2-3x a week of KNO3
Maybe 1/16th of the KH2PO4.(divide an 1/8th or a 1/4 into 2 or 4 equal parts by eye, it's not hard).
I make a stock solution of traces, mostly by habit, always have.
Some folks dose it dry on larger tanks.
I make a mix:
4 parts CMS(teaspoons)
1 Part DTPA
1 Part Fe Gluconate
maybe 20mls of Excel
Hot water 480mls
Shake well, wait an hour, then start dosing.
5 mls 3-4x a week
This is about all you might even could potentially use at the highest possible light PAR.
If the ADA aqua soil or MTS is new, then you can dose less if you wish, but it'll decline over time(you have about 1 year or thereabouts) in Nitrogen only, the other stuff is there for perhaps a decade.
And since EI is the upper bounds, you can modify, as I suggested going back to 1997-1998, but simply progressively adding less and less till you hit a negative plant response.
since the proportion from the sediment will change over time, the dosing will also change to the water column over time.Some enjoy fiddling with it, I do not.
I like large frequent water changes, so does Amano, I think most good scapers in the world do also, and we likely all have good reasons, different perhaps, but the tank looks better after a large water change. You can still grow nice plants with fewer water changes, but it makes life simpler for most tanks and certainly new tanks and any new ADA tank is best done very frequently, eg, ADA does 2-3x a week 50-80% water changes for the 1st1-2 months.
You can keep doing that and keep up on things really well, but you can likely back off and see. I have some tanks that get no water changes for months, others, 1x a month, and some that get 1-2x a week.
Some people loath water changes, so you can modify for your bad habits
I garden more= I do more water changes. That's a general rule. Just keeps things cleaner. Less gardening= I'll use less light= less growth= less work.
So obviously I can use less EI dosing.
EI was just a response to simplifying dosing for folks, it is not meant to be complicated. Hence the removal of test kits. Teaspoon usage. etc.
I have an ADA 60P (17Gallons) and I am somewhat new to EI (Researching all day). I'm trying to get a dry fertilizer list going but I have a few questions.
1. I know I need Macros (NPK) and Micros (Plantex CSM+B), so I have GLA's green fertilizers package which includes
- Micros -
- Plantex CSM + B - 1 / 2 Pound
- Macros -
- Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) - 1 Pound
- Mono Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) - 1 / 2 Pound
- Potassium Sulfate (K2SO4) - 1 Pound
So my question is if this is a "standard" way to get NPK and MICROS why why would I choose one over the other? Example1: Instead of K2SO4 some may just use KNO3,KH2PO4, or a mix of the three? Example2: Instead of Plantex CSM+B use PMDD, or Millers Microplex? What are the advantages and or disadvantages? GLA warns that PMDD is for the "experienced" why?
2. I ordered 8oz (250ml aprox) bottles and pumps that do 2ml per pump. I know there a suggestions of what ppm each fertilizer should reach, but is that for the week or per dose? Also could I dose 2x a week vs 3x via higher concentration?
3. Would I have to buy MGNO32 or MGSO4 or are these supplied by the Plantex?
Thank you for the help!