The Myth of Low Nitrates and Red - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-31-2011, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff5614 View Post
Possibly, could also just be the color from the Aquaflora. The reds are lot more apparent using an Aquaflora in the mix than with two Middays.
Yes, only marginally, but even in your first pic with the red is much more apparent on top closer to the light.
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post #47 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-31-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by houseofcards View Post
Yes, only marginally, but even in your first pic with the red is much more apparent on top closer to the light.
True. I never was very concerned with trying to bring out color or what made them red. I was just happy when it happened.
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post #48 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-31-2011, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by snausage View Post
Come on, all these pics show easy cheesy sorts of red plants.
Tell ya what, produce reds like these:

Since it is so easy and all............

Looks better to me. I've never found Rotala's to be particularly difficult plants. Weedy.......but not hard.

A wide range of red plants, a comparative sampling shows there's little evidence for support. Even if you find for yourself a case where you THINK it's due to lower NO3.........all it takes is for one person to prove you wrong. But it does not imply that you are correct, only that there is some correlation.

To test this hypothesis, that low NO3 = better color, we need to show that for ALL CASES, that this is true, which it clearly is not.

You might keep suggesting that the newest stem plant of the month requires low NHO3 for nice reds..........but that was done with all the species I posted above and those too...came to past and have been falsified.

New fish, shrimp, plants........because they are "new", have not had as much chance to be grown out by many folks and not enough time to test various situations and falsify, so ignorance and myth previals till such time that the myths are falsified. This has come to past for all the other plants, I see little rational logic to see why this does not extent to most all plants, but no one has falsified this statement yet

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post #49 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-31-2011, 09:30 PM
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So, if I grow rotala macrandra 'Japan' and rotala 'sunset with 40 ppm nitrate and post pictures, will you eat your words?

I want pictures of you eating your words if so

I can possibly falsify this, even if I do not, I still am not proven wrong, you however, will be........ if one person shows this not to be the case.

Many said similar things about P stellata, "Tonina(S belem and 2-3 others in the genus), Erio's, Ludwigias, many others.

Take the bait........take the bait.........

Tom Barr
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post #50 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 02:32 AM
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I grow red Macrandra in an EI tank and it gets extremely red, depending on the light (light moves up and down with the growth of the hydroponic plants next to the aquarium. Often the plants grow over the aquarium and shade it also.).

If I limit nitrate when the light is low, I end up with the ugliest yellow/brown Macrandra you've ever seen. If I limit light only, I get green Macrandra. If I limit nitrate under high light, it seems to me that it may be more red, but this observation is very subjective, as I only have the one tank under the light. When my snow peas are done, I may tear the hydro down for the summer and set up a few more tanks so I can do a side by side comparison.

Maybe there's something wrong with my logic, but if the red is coming from slow chlorophyl production, wouldn't the red parts of the plant turn green anyways in a few days once enough chlorophyl is produced?

I'm definitely behind the statement that CO2 is important for developing red color. I grew the same plants in a non-co2 tank under the same lights and ended up with orange/ light pink Macrandra.

I tried dosing piles of iron also, which didn't seem to have any affect on coloration. I couldn't completely eliminate all iron as a control, as it's present in the multicote I put under the substrate as well as my tap water. Iron dosing to create red never made any sense to me, but I tried it anyway.
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post #51 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 06:13 PM
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I have a question. I purchased a API Nitrite and Nitrate test kit yesterday as well as a Seachem Iron test kit and my Nitrites were good at .25 but my Nitrates were at 80ppm (dark red on test card) should I be alarmed or am I ok?
I do have plants some of which are red in color others are green. I have a 10g, with CO2 and a small UV light with 10 fish and a T5HO 24" 2x24 for 7 hours a day (I know too much light).

Also, my iron was low as well. From the test card is was suppose to be a light purple or between .01 and .02 I think. I did ad some Nutrinfin Plant Gro which contains iron. the booklet from Seachem indicated that if iron is low the water I tested would be a yellowish color, which is what it was. Should I just keep using the Nutrinfin Plant Gro or add something else ?
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post #52 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 06:39 PM
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Accidentally came across this info as I was surfing the web. Thought I might add it to the mix.

"The effect of light of different wavelengths on the expression of red coloration of leaves, the so-called "red" plants. It is known that the red coloration of leaves is caused by the elaboration of flavonoid. They give red leaves. Developing flavonoid is a defensive reaction from the damaging effects of ultraviolet light, respectively, red color appears only when tubes have a sufficient share of the short-wave blue part of the spectrum close to UV radiation. 4% of UV radiation can be obtained by selecting a lamp with "full spectrum" or with a high color temperature 6500-9000K. Illumination of plants with too much light fraction of red light leads to the opposite effects - as the light begins to miss, the leaves become thinner and the amount of chlorophyll decreases, the stems and leaves are extended, and the plant is greatly lacking in aesthetics. On the coloration of leaves may also affect the proportion of nitrogen: phosphorus ,fertilizer and other factors."

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post #53 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 07:18 PM
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A friend told me that his aquarium is so "red".He just "forgot" to stop the lights at night
He promised to take a picture next weekend,when he will repeat that experiment

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post #54 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 10:57 PM
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Just thought I would add my 2 cents. Red pigments with plants are a reaction of light intensity. Some plants are 'born' red, even in low light, but require high light and will die in low light (i.e. Rotala or Alternanthera). But some plants will react to high light by producing more red pigment, i.e. Cryptocorynes.

Our eye captures the color being reflected back to us by an object/plant. Colors we don't see are absorbed by objects/plants as heat or energy. Different colors are just different intensities of energy waves. Plants love red wavelengths and can use them most efficiently. Overall, plants don't really use green wavelengths so they are reflected off, back to our eyes. A plant will only reflect red back if there is an excess as red wavelengths are most preferred by them.

Colors in plants other than green is called variegation. For brighter variegation, you must increase light. It is the same with terrestrial plants.
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post #55 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 07:24 AM
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A few pictures from my tank 16 gallons only, RO 100% water changes 50% every weekend, Seachem fertilizers thrice a week, Using T5 2*24W and T8*10w light period 10 hours, CO2 solenoid regulator connected with lighting on a timer, CO2 Atomizer attached to the incoming pipe from External filter. Hailea Chiller temperature fluctuates between 25-26 degrees celcius. The chiller has an external Eheim water pump. I have green dot algae on slow growing plants and aquarium glass but clean the glass every week during water changes.
Nitrate 20 Phosphate 2 PH 6.4 GH 9 KH 4 TDS 220 ppm
Started this tank in the beginning of 12/2011 happy with the results.

Totally agree that Rotala and Alternanthera like to be near a light source otherwise they die.
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