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Help me understand PH testing? (photo enclosed)

3K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  klibs 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi there!

I just tested the water in my tank, and everything checks out ok except for the ph - I can't figure out what it is.

The regular pH testing seems to be around 7.6 - but the high range pH test seems to be 7.4 or below? Am I missing something? :)

Thanks so much!

 
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#2 · (Edited)
That's what you call a 7.5. You can look up the ph of bottled water that you have locally, and test your test, to make sure it is reading right. If so, might as well go with 7.5. I get that sometimes and that's what I do. You mainly want to keep it stable and the fauna should be ok, unless they have special needs. If you get that reading regularly, I wouldn't worry too much. Bear in mind that the ph will change a bit during the course of a day. More so if you are injecting co2 into your tank.
 
#3 ·
Are you using API? Can't see the photo for some reason. My API kit does the same thing, Ive always been reluctant to assume it means 7.5. Especially since I get the same readings, I've never gotten a reading other than what you've experienced. At first I thought the test is bad, then I thought maybe it does mean 7.5. Fortunately it isn't an issue in my tanks as I don't inject co2 in any way, but I still doubt my ph is that stable ALL THE TIME.


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#10 ·
For the most part I agree, but there are specific times where pH is important such a making sure you are above 7 for specific types of snails. Most fish and plants acclimate to reasonable pH ranges, but throw breeding or inverts into the mix, and it can definitely make a difference.
 
#11 ·
Thank you for the replies! :)

To further complicate things, I had my water tested at Petsmart yesterday - and everything was great except for the pH that tested at 8.3. I'd tested my water beforehand at home with my api master test and got the same results I posted here - so I'm not sure which test was inaccurate.

I did order ph testing strips that will be here tomorrow to see how that compares. I also ordered fluval peat pellets to introduce slowly to see if that helps.

I'd be much happier if my pH was closer to 7.6 - I'm guessing my fish would be happier too, especially since I'd like to add more fish in the future. My current fish are probably going to start aging out soon. (I mostly have five year old gold tetras, neon tetras and corydora - they've survived three aquarium changes, and then this apparently higher ph water several months ago when I moved to a new house, haha.) I also have several nerite snails, though I lost all of my older snails when I first moved here and had trouble introducing newer ones - I guess because of the higher ph.

Would a ph of 8.3 explain why I've had a hard time keeping plants alive? I'm using eco-complete for the substrate, have a 24/7 planted plus light in a 29 gallon, homemade fert capsules, and dose with co2. I'm FINALLY seeing slightly better results lately, but if lowering the pH would help, that would be even nicer!


...or maybe I should just get cichlids after my current stock dies out, haha.
 
#12 ·
Thank you for the replies! :)

To further complicate things, I had my water tested at Petsmart yesterday - and everything was great except for the pH that tested at 8.3. I'd tested my water beforehand at home with my api master test and got the same results I posted here - so I'm not sure which test was inaccurate.

.
I do some water sampling and testing for submission to government regulatory agencies, pH samples have no hold time and must be tested immediately to ensure accuracy.
 
#14 ·
I'll post the ph strip test results tomorrow when I get them. I'm really curious to see if they match what the store's result was. The water was in the vial for about an hour before they tested it.

I'll also do my api master test again, though it has been fairly consistent!
 
#15 ·
Update!

I tested with my api master test, and got the same exact results as the top of this thread. PH test = 7.6, and "high range" PH test = 7.4.

I tested the water straight from the faucet, and that was between 7.0 and 7.2 - so it apparently gets higher from something in my aquarium.

...and here is the result from the strip test. I actually can't quite tell what the PH is, what do you think? It does appear that I have hard water - might need a softener for my plants to be happy? (I've had issues with keeping plants alive)



In case it tested high, I did get some fluval peat granules to introduce slowly - but I'm thinking it might not be necessary.
 
#16 ·
Your parameters are almost identical to mine actually, and your water is not too hard if those strips are remotely accurate. With a low KH, carbon dioxide will lower pH much easier. Out of your tap, the pH is lower because it has CO2 mixed in, and as it gasses off, the pH raises.
 
#17 ·
Your GH appears to be between 75-150 ppm, which I would say is good!

But if you want a better idea of how hard or soft your water is, then get the API Liquid GH & KH test kit and a TDS meter.



If you want to get a better idea of the pH of your tap water, then fill up a bucket or container of water straight from the tap, then put an airstone in it. Leave it overnight (8 hours) or up to 24 hours and test again. After it's sat out and "degassed", you may find that the pH is different.
 
#18 ·
Notice that the API low pH test kit color chart skips from 7.2 to 7.6, and it isn't easy to clearly see a difference between those two colors. They do that because the solution color at 7.4 is indistinguishable from that at 7.6, and barely different than that at 7.2. When you get a blue color like that all you know is that the pH is probably above 7.0, but you really can't tell more than that.

I don't know any aquarium situation where it matters if the pH is 7.0 or 7.2 or 7.4 or 7.6, so there is no reason to be concerned.
 
#19 ·
Thank you, everyone! :)

So it appears I might finally be on the right track? I do have a liquid GH & KH test kit, I'll do that later just to check.

I'm also crossing my fingers. I have new plants arriving today and I'm hoping they do better than plants I've tried in the past. My biggest problem has been an algae bloom, but I seem to have that better under control since I introduced more nerites (black racers), have been dosing with co2, am using osmocote capsules, and altered how long I left the lights on. I have a Finnex 24/7, and it seems the algae *really* liked the 24/7 setting.

The nerites have been especially helpful. I had one decoration in my tank that would get overwhelmed quickly with algae, and it has been spotless since introducing the new snails! :)
 
#20 ·
Again, I doubt your pH is the sole reason your plants your plants are struggling

Like Nate said in an earlier post the only real reason you should worry about pH is when dealing with more sensitive species of fish or invertebrates like some shrimp or snails. Some plants are exceptions and are very picky but the majority of them will grow fine in a wide range of pH

Just don't fall into the trap thinking that if all of your parameters are at certain values you will are bound to have healthy plants / a successful tank. this is very far from reality / not how it works. The best planted tank keepers usually never check the parameters of their tanks (at least after cycling / initial setup)... instead you learn from experience and understand what is needed based on what the plants are telling you.

99% of the time people struggle with plant health / algae issues due to lighting issues coupled with plant selection / how heavily planted their tank is. fertilizers can sometimes be an issue but IMO it is far more often lighting/plant issue
 
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