there are some caveats: if you have a balanced tank, then removing water and removing the nutrients, which are often very low, will lead to algae, if you over load the non CO2 planted tank, then the issue is very different.
Smaller % works better, try 50% if you want to test it.
Alan had a lot of issues with a large predator tank and went to daily automated water changes and got rid of the algae. He could not use CO2 well in the tank either. So this took care of things.
Point is, you do not need to do water changes and light, the type of plants, whether some are floating, out of water make a large difference, tap water etc likely as well and general stability. If you added a lot of plants from the start, then life is likely pretty good.
I have little issue with a mat of floating water sprite and higher current African rift tank doing water changes, the tank was loaded and the fish produced too much waste. The CO2 was not an issue as the plants are easy to grow and float.
I think the issue is really based more on folks with too much fish and they have to do water changes vs a balancing the plant/fish load. So why do the no water change tanks do so well? Have you tried not doing them or doing larger % water changes? Measure CO2 before and after the water changes?
Try it and see.