Am I over doing it or am I on the right track? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Am I over doing it or am I on the right track?

I have a Current USA freshwater LED PLUS fixture rated at 6500k. I have Java Fern, Anubias,Water Wisteria, and a red flame sword.

They are all moderate light or lower and hardy plants.

The question is , am I overdoing it with the 6500k ?
What is 6500k considered? (Bright, moderate, low lit)
I can dim the lights if it is too bright. I was reading something about having to add co2 as the lights get brighter. Will I have to do this ?
I'm a bit confused.

Extra Info:

•Current USA FRESH WATER LED PLUS 18 watts / 6500k
•I use eco complete
•iron/ potassium fertilizer
•I plan to keep it low-tech and only get hardy plants as I am new to planted aquariums.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:31 PM
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The Kelvins at the end of the number (K) is the light color, the higher the number the more blue/violet the light will look. The lower the number the more red the light will look.
It really doesn't tell us how much light you have.

What size tank is this? How far are the lights from the substrate?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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20 gallon high.

24 inches from side to side.
12 inches front to back
16 inches bottom to top.

Uhhhhhh, I'd say about 13 inches away ? It's on the lid of my aquarium.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:45 PM
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PAR at that depth would be ~30-35. (low to medium light)

Low light - 15-30 micromols of PAR - CO2 is not needed, but is helpful to the plants
Medium light - 35-50 micromols of PAR - CO2 may be needed to avoid too many nuisance algae problems
High light - more than 50 micromols of PAR - pressurized CO2 is essential to avoid major algae problems

Taken from this post Lighting an Aquarium with PAR instead of Watts

Last edited by latchdan; 06-11-2014 at 03:50 PM. Reason: added link
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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I can't afford those fancy CO2 pumps.

Would those liquid ones by Seachem or API be the same ?well maybe not the same , but at least help ?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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I went to the website and got more details.

Total lumens : 1000
Par@12" : 36
Par@18" : 28
Par@24" : 21
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 04:56 PM
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Excel wouldn't hurt.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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I'm so new to this , sorry.

What does it mean when they say

Par@x" ?

So a little excel and everything should be ok ?

Sorry for all the questions ,but you seem to know a lot
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 05:05 PM
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PAR increases as you put the light closer to the substrate. So if the light was 12 inches away the PAR would be 36. You could order some Seachem Excel and add that to the tank daily or buy metricide 14. Which is the same chemical but stronger then excel and dose that. You can do some searches and find out exactly what to dose.

You may also want to pick up a trace fert such as Seachem Flourish.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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So if I were to raise the light some place higher and get the par number to be a little less, CO2 would be optional? As you said 15-30 PAR requires optional CO2 , right ?

(Last question, I promise)
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:08 PM
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No you prolly will not need co2 even at current levels, I was just suggesting Excel/metricide 14 wouldn't hurt and its fairly inexpensive.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:27 PM
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Excel works very well at the 35 PAR light level you probably have. I use that light level, and I dose twice what the bottle directions say to use - about 2 ml per 10 gallons instead of 1 ml per 10 gallons. You should dose that every day, and don't pay any attention to the bottle instructions to dose 5 times that much for the first dose. That part is totally unnecessary and can be hard on some plants.

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6500k, kelvin, lighting, lowtech tank, watts

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