Led Lighting; Premade vs. DIY - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 08:13 PM
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Hey check out rabidled.com, they've got kits, drivers, lenses, everything. Makes it super easy to put something together.

GROW BABY GROW
-20long-
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 08:17 PM
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The Meanwell ELN-60-48D model is dimmed with a potentiometer and a 10 volt power supply. The -48P model requires a PWM controller to dim it. The P model is used with electronic dimming circuits, like a computer or a Arduino device. For the D model, you can use the dimming kit that RapidLED sells, or just buy the appropriate potentiometer and 10 volt source.

I expect that that layout would give pretty uniform light over the whole substrate. However you light the tank, any hardscape that extends up near the waterline is likely to grow BBA. You just resign yourself to weekly cleaning of the hardscape to kill and remove it.

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 08:18 PM
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Keep in mind that if you have 60mmol at the substrate in the well covered areas that the less covered areas will likely still have useable light.

If you were going for a real low light level then you would have to worry more about the areas not directly under the lights getting any good light but with a med-med hi light level you should get enough spill that most stuff will grow even at the edges even if you don't lay out or plan the fixture perfectly, IMO.

As PAR readings become more common and experience and advice from guys like Tom Barr and Hoppy is accumulated it seems more and more like overlighting is a bigger problem in planted tanks rather than underlighting.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
The Meanwell ELN-60-48D model is dimmed with a potentiometer and a 10 volt power supply. The -48P model requires a PWM controller to dim it. The P model is used with electronic dimming circuits, like a computer or a Arduino device. For the D model, you can use the dimming kit that RapidLED sells, or just buy the appropriate potentiometer and 10 volt source.

I expect that that layout would give pretty uniform light over the whole substrate. However you light the tank, any hardscape that extends up near the waterline is likely to grow BBA. You just resign yourself to weekly cleaning of the hardscape to kill and remove it.
ok that makes sense. THanks, for now Ill go with the D model that way I can keep it simple. I could always upgrade later.

I could angle the fixture slightly away from the driftwood that way an LED wont be directly over the wood improving the situation hopefully. The more I get my head around this stuff the more I love the possibilities. Its so customizeable its mind boggling really! I cant wait to get started on this! Do you recommend attaching the LEDs with screws or with adhesive?
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Baadboy11 View Post
Hey check out rabidled.com, they've got kits, drivers, lenses, everything. Makes it super easy to put something together.
Ya I know and their prices seem reasonable. I think I might throw in one of their moonlight kits for 18 bucks as well. My lights usually go off around 8 and I like to still see whats a going on in there.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 09:02 PM
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I just got a new tank and am new to the forum. Its a 54 gallon corner bowfront. I will be slowly phasing out my traditional 55 gallon. Due to the different size of the hoods I will have to get new lighting, so I have been seriously considering LEDS.
Thoughts? Think I can succesfully put together a homemade LED setup or should I just stick to adding a few more premade units? I guess I just dont know how much light is enough.
Since you have the skills there's nothing stopping you from designing an led fixture emulating this one.
http://www.marineandreef.com/Acan_Li...p/ran60118.htm

Here's somebody on YouTube demonstrating theirs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AjotIYvB7k
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by carpalstunna View Post
ok that makes sense. THanks, for now Ill go with the D model that way I can keep it simple. I could always upgrade later.

I could angle the fixture slightly away from the driftwood that way an LED wont be directly over the wood improving the situation hopefully. The more I get my head around this stuff the more I love the possibilities. Its so customizeable its mind boggling really! I cant wait to get started on this! Do you recommend attaching the LEDs with screws or with adhesive?
People have been successful using screws or adhesive. I used adhesive and found it very easy to use and more than secure enough. When I used screws I accidentally shorted a couple of LEDs to the heatsink. But, with lots of care that might not happen, and with nylon screws it definitely won't happen. If you buy a predrilled heatsink, and can find the right size nylon screws that seems to be the best of both words. You do still need the heat conducting grease between the LED and the heatsink, so there is no cost savings involved.

I have also used aquarium silicone sealant applied as a couple of tiny blobs instead of either screws or adhesive. That worked too. (The silicone is not between the LED and the heatsink.)

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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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After pricing everything individually. I think this kit looks like a good deal and what I need.

http://www.rapidled.com/12-ultra-pre...mable-drivers/

I would get all white with 80 degree optics and the D driver. Then all I need is the heatsink and dimmer. Unfortunately rapid led is sold out of the large 6 inch and 4 inch heatsinks. So may have to get that elsewhere.
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