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LED Lighting Compendium

386K views 334 replies 148 participants last post by  iamaloner 
#1 · (Edited)
This thread is here to try and keep new and seasoned aquarists informed about LED lighting. Please post any information, especially relating to PAR vs Distance you have for the various LED lighting fixtures and emitters out there. I will add more information to the top post as people throw it in here. Please provide source links wherever possible.

:angryfire Please do not post here asking for suggestions about a certian light or recommendations for what light to choose. :angryfire This is a place for people to come and find actual information about commercial LED fixtures. If you want some suggestions, make a new thread in the lighting forum. This serves the dual purpose of not cluttering this thread and your issue getting more exposure for a suggestion. Thanks!

Deciphering This Thread
PAR Values(Source) - Thanks Gnomecatcher for the suggestion!
Values between 10-30 are considered low light.
Values between 30-80 are considered medium light.
Values between 80-120 are considered high light.
Keep in mind that these values are what is currently accepted by the community as accurate, and aren't set in stone.

Symbols
:eek: - Fixture designed for marine applications. This can be a problem in terms of high output or bad color for planted tanks.
:biggrin: - Fixture designed for freshwater planted applications. You shouldn't have to worry about output or color with these.

AquaIllumination Sol :eek:
PAR Data(Source) PAR Vs. Distance from source
400+ PAR @ 24"
300 PAR @ 30"
200 PAR @ 36"
Notes: Above information doesn't really do this fixture justice. Check out the source link, gives spectral output and PAR vs. distance with coverage. This fixture is meant for marine setups, so has very high PAR values. Dimming or raising the light high above the surface would be necessary for a planted setup.

AquaticLife LED 0.5W Expandable Fixtures
PAR Data not available
Notes: In response to an email i sent out, Dave Troop at AquaticLife responded saying their lights don't put out enough for plants, and are only meant for accent lighting or fish only setups (Source).

Current TrueLumen Pro LED StripLight
PAR Data(Source) PAR Vs. Distance from source
350 PAR @ surface
96 PAR @ 6"
57 PAR @ 12"
42 PAR @ 18"
31 PAR @ 24"
Notes: Numbers are for a single fixture. The source link shows numbers for multiple fixtures configured like a T5 setup as well, worth checking out.

E.Shine Systems 3G LED Aquarium Lights
PAR Data(Source)
Notes: The different configurations of this light series are much too extensive to list in this thread. Click on the source link for a full list of the 3G LED fixtures offered by E.Shine. Each page has very comprehensive PAR data, so just poke around a bit.

E.Shine Systems Aqua Washer
PAR Data(Source)
Notes: Complete graphical PAR data is provided in the source link for this fixture.

E.Shine Systems 60W CREE Classic
PAR Data(Source)
Notes: Complete graphical PAR data is provided in the source link for this fixture. Looks to be very high powered, more suited for marine use. Could use for plants if it was hung fairly high above the tank, or good for deep tanks.

Ecoxotic Panorama Freshwater Module :biggrin:
PAR Data(Source) PAR Vs. Distance from source
161 PAR @ surface (3" through air)
101 PAR @ 7"
60 PAR @ 12"
36 PAR @ 18"
Notes: One should easily cover the footprint of a 10 gallon tank with medium-high light.

Ecoxotic Stunner Strip
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
105 PAR @ surface (3" through air)
86 PAR @ 7"
71 PAR @ 12"
59 PAR @ 15"
49 PAR @ 18"
Notes: Please note that the above reading is for a 4 strip array. I don't know why the testers did this since it gives us no real basis on which to judge this fixture. Good catch Erica.

Finnex FugeRay
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
10" fixture: 49 PAR @ 6", 18 PAR @ 12", 9 PAR @ 18"
12" fixture: 62 PAR @ 6", 25 PAR @ 12", 13 PAR @ 18"
Notes: Amazingly low cost for an LED fixture that puts out medium light for nano tanks. Nice slim design, too. It's a good idea to check out the source link on this one, gives offset PAR values so coverage can be approximated. One of the easiest to read PAR charts i've seen. Also comes equipped with blue moonlights. Big thanks to Lowe for the data on these.

Finnex Ray II
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
16" fixture: 130 PAR @ 6", 49 PAR @ 12", 27 PAR @ 18"
18" fixture: 153 PAR @ 6", 72 PAR @ 12", 37 PAR @ 18"
24" fixture: 179 PAR @ 6", 87 PAR @ 12", 55 PAR @ 18"
Notes: Great value priced fixture for various sized tanks. It's a good idea to check out the source link on this one, gives offset PAR values so coverage can be approximated. One of the easiest to read PAR charts i've seen. Big thanks to Lowe for the data on these.

Innovative Marine SKKYE Lights :eek:
PAR Data(Source)
Just look at the source link on this one, PAR data is very well explained.

Kessil A150 LED Aquarium Light :eek:
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
2888 PAR @ 0"
2000 PAR @ surface (4" through air)
400-500 PAR @ 8"
80-90 PAR @ 15"
Notes: Very powerful lights, designed for reef applications. If you go through the thread in the source link, there is a lot more information pertaining to this light. An example I found interesting was the 20g long lit with a single one of these lights hung pretty high above the tank, and still growing corals (view here). Credit for PAR data goes to Frick.

Kessil A150W Amazon Sun :biggrin:
PAR Data(Source 1, Source 2) PAR vs. Distance from source
56 PAR @ 18"
42 PAR @ 21"
34 PAR @ 24"
Notes: Seem to be about perfect for getting medium light to most medium sized aquariums. Great coverage for such a small light. Credit for PAR data goes to propsi.

Marineland Single Bright
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
18-24" fixture: 8 PAR @ 12", 3 PAR @ 24"
24-36" fixture: 10 PAR @ 12", 4 PAR @ 24"
36-48" fixture: 11 PAR @ 12", 4.5 PAR @ 24"
48-60" fixture: 16 PAR @ 12", 6 PAR @ 24"
Notes: Probably not suitable for even low light plants unless the tank is very shallow.

Marineland Double Bright
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
18-24 inch fixture: 30 PAR @ 12", 17 PAR @ 24"
24-36 inch fixture: 35 PAR @ 12", 19 PAR @ 24"
36-48 inch fixture: 54 PAR @ 12", 26 PAR @ 24"
48-60 inch fixture: 73 PAR @ 12", 35 PAR @ 24"
Notes: Should provide low light for most tanks, depending on fixture size.

Marineland Reef Capable :eek:
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
1876 PAR @ surface
253 PAR @ 6"
170 PAR @ 12"
110 PAR @ 18"
80 PAR @ 24"
Notes: Would probably have to be hung at least 1 foot above most tanks to prevent lots of algae. Great for high light on a tall tank as well. Thanks goes out again to AquaNerd blog, much better than the information in Marineland's catalog.

Maxspect Mazarra LED Lighting System :eek:
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
350 PAR @ 20"
Notes: Check out the source link on this one, gives coverage data as well. This system is designed for reef applications, so put out very, very high PAR. They use the newest CREE XM-L emmiters, which are very powerful. Probably too powerful for anything a plant enthusiast could use. Click here for an image of what a reefer has done with this setup, and the extremely high PAR he's getting. Credit for PAR reedings on that image goes to Acrotrdco.

TMC AquaBeam 1500XG Ocean White :eek:
PAR Data(Source) PAR Vs. Distance from source
231 PAR @ surface (7” through air)
161 PAR @ 10”
104 PAR @ 14”
78 PAR @ 19”
52 PAR @ 25”
Notes: Uses 10 x 9000K Cree XP-G diodes.

TMC GroBeam 1000 Natural Daylight
PAR Data(Source) PAR Vs. Distance from source
195 PAR @ surface (7” through air)
120 PAR @ 10”
80 PAR @ 14”
52 PAR @ 19”
41 PAR @ 25”
Notes: Uses 10 x 6500K Cree XP-E Compact PowerLEDS.

WingoLED Fluval Edge Savior
PAR Data(Source)
Notes: Click on the source link for par data here, shows PAR values for various points at the bottom of the aquarium. Very nice solution for the Fluval Edge line of aquariums, where space and coverage are in inherent issue with this tank design. Credit for PAR data goes to WingoAgency.

WingoLED PAR38 Bulbs
PAR38 15x1W WingoLED DayLight 12,000K
PAR38 12x1W WingoLED TriBand 60 degree
PAR38 18x1W WingoLED Perfect Sprectrum
PAR38 15x1W WingoLED DayLight 6,700K
Notes: Just click on the links for these individually, great graphical par data is provided. Credit for PAR data goes to WingoAgency.
 
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#146 ·
Doesn't mention anywhere in that post that they used 4 strips for the readings. There is a picture of 4 strips together in the dark to illustrate color differences. Why would they use 4 strips to measure PAR for a fixture? That wouldn't be useful at all.

Edit: You are correct, he said it down in the comments section. That's unfortunate, makes the readings there pretty much useless. I always thought those numbers were a bit high considering the product. Will make a note.

Any info on the Aquaray Grobeam 500?
I post all information as soon as i get it, and have never heard back about that particular model. If you contact TMC and get some numbers from them, post what they said on this thread pretty please!
 
#147 ·
Finnex FugeRay
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
38-42 PAR @ 10" (12" model)
Notes: Amazingly low cost for an LED fixture that puts out medium light for nano tanks. Nice slim design, too. Also comes equipped with blue moonlights.

Finnex Ray II
PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
Look at the source link for PAR data on this one, very hard to represent with numbers.
Notes: Another low cost option in the LED market.
Thank you for getting everything together. Great post. After getting more data from our manufacturer, I hope the graph attached is easier for you to interpret. I will post the RAY II specs I received in a similar format.




 
#149 ·
Thanks a bunch for that Lowe. That is the easiest to read chart i've ever seen for PAR representation. I am sure I can speak for everyone in the hobby when i say that companies who work to keep their consumers informed are second to none. Unfortunately that isn't a business model i've encountered often when trying to put this compendium together.
 
#150 ·
You know I have to admit, the more I look at the True Lumen PRO LED fixtures the more I like them, strictly in terms of aesthetics. That they work (particularly when used in multiples) makes them even more attractive. I do however think that the need to purchase the power supply separately is unattractive. For many of these strip-type fixtures, I'm waiting to see what Marineland's Planted Aquarium LED fixture is going to be like given it's potent PAR ratings and streamlined, digital controller. BTW, Samamorgan, thanks again for your hard work on this compendium! You should come over to the East side and get a taste of the Palouse some time! ;)
 
#152 ·
In the words of Robin Williams in Bicentennial Man: "One is glad to be of service." Seriously though, I never thought this would get as much appreciation as it has, or grow as big as it has.
 
#158 ·
Originally Posted by wintu View Post
hi guys ,great thread. i'd like to replace my fishneed it 2x24w for led light and looks like that finnex ray 2 24" would good choice , this will be going over 60p tank and i dont mind raising the light a little . what you guys think?
Please read the big red disclaimer at the top of this thread.
sorry , my bad. anybody have finnex ray 2 , how hot does it get? also is there way to hang it?
 
#161 ·
Grobeam 1000ND

Hello all. Just thought that I would post a few additional pics of the fixture I'm using for reference. Samamorgan, I hope you don't mind me jacking your thread by posting these photos here, I just thought that for people considering LED fixtures (as I was not that long ago) pictures really do speak for themselves much more effectively than descriptions do. You will note below in these photos, that I only have one light tile on the metal rail, but a second is waiting to be added. The entire top of this Grobeam 1000ND is extruded metal (aluminum I imagine) and acts as a heatsink. Within that are channels of metal onto which the rail slides and from which the tile hangs to wire spring hangers that screw into the ends for attaching to the ceiling with a ferrule.



As you can see in this photo below, it is quite bright for an LED fixture and this is a raw image fresh from the camera with no white balance adjustments (flash off).



Here is an example of the light intensity 34" from the light fixture, down to my driftwood sitting on my bedroom floor (waiting for it's new 90P home, lol).

 
#166 ·
Great information. TY for the time and effort involved.

Any CRI data?
If a red tiger lotus looks blue under a specific LED fixture, I might have an issue regardless of everything else :)
 
#167 ·
Great thread - Thanks for all the work!

I just ordered the 36" TrueLumen Pro 8,000K for use over a 12 long. I expect the actual 8,000K PAR numbers to be slightly higher than reported as the tests conducted by AquaNerd used the marine version and the MQ-200 underestimates PAR when measuring very blue light by up to ~20%. I'll share PAR data once set up if interested.
 
#169 ·
PAR results for TrueLumenPro 8,000K

PAR measurements taken with an Apogee MQ-200.



These PAR measurements were taken in "open air". Based on my experience, they will differ little when measured with water in the tank. The fact that these lights use surface mounted emitters without any optics might provide different results through water - I'll remeasure once the tank is wet.

More photos in my 12G Long build thread.
 
#173 ·
Just a quick update to let you all know that I probably won't update this for a while. Things in life are hectic right now and I simply don't have the time to pursue the research and recreational activities that I usually do. I've been pretty absent from these forums for the last month and this is going to continue for the forseeable future.
 
#176 ·
The great thing about the internet is that if you get the ball rolling on a project then often times one or more people can carry the project once you are done with it. Often times it just takes that person to do the initial work and make it seem less intimidating and then other don't feel so afraid to get involved.
 
#178 ·
Joe, we have lots of people successfully using LEDs to grow plants, so they can't be said to be ineffective. Most of us use "cool white", possibly with some "warm white" or "neutral white" mixed in. Those aren't really specifications, just general descriptive names. If you look at the spectra for a few cool white LEDs, for example, you find that they look very similar to each other. So, it is pretty safe to say that cool white LEDs are good plant lights.

The whole point of using PAR to determine how effective a given light is for plants is that the PAR is the light intensity in the band of light that plants respond to. So, PAR is the measurement of how much light, you get, in the spectral range that plants can utilize. It is also a mistake to assume that because chlorophyl absorbs blue and red light well, means that plants don't absorb other colors. They do, but they also reflect more of the green and yellow light striking them then they do the red and blue light. If you were to try to grow plants with just yellow and green light, you could do it. And, if you were to use the same PAR intensity for the yellow and green light as for blue and red light I suspect the plant growth would be comparable. I have seen no reports of tests to try to determine if that is true, for typical aquatic plants, so all we can do is guess.
 
#179 · (Edited)
Thanks for clearing that up Hoppy. I think I get it now. It all kinda makes me feel a lot less knowledgeable than I did yesterday lol

I work at an aquarium shop, and we cater to everything from goldfish and betta bowls to high tech planted and reef set-ups. I just got this overwhelming guilty feeling for some of the advise I've given people coming to me for help. Its funny cause I'm supposed to be one of the plant guys at the store yet now I feel like I've been steering people in the wrong direction when it comes to LEDs and t5 replacement lamps/fixtures.

I guess I've been stuck in the old ways when I thought I was up on the new teaching and logic on the subject. So, just so I am clear on all this...

PAR ratings refer directly to available light, regardless of spectrum, but are all of these bands of light usable (PUR)?. And plants can in fact utilize the white light put out by 10K bulbs as well as they do the 65-67K ones? Also, since plants absorb the blue and red spectral range, is it safe to say that actinic and 50/50 lamps are more useful in planted applications than I was originally taught?

I also have a question relating to the above breakdown of the TrueLumen fixture's PAR ratings. That fixture only puts out 8000K light, correct? Correct me if I am wrong, but is a single spectrum of light (in this case 8000K) sufficient for plants to thrive? I was under the impression that it was better to have several different spectra of light available to the plants for photosynthesis. For example, I am currently running both 6700K and 1000K t5 lamps over my plants for this reason. So what I am asking is: Are these fixtures marketed at a specific spectrum worth the buy? I mean, based on everything we've said so far, it seems that the reason LEDs are so great is the wide range of wavelengths they put out, right? So when I see these TrueLumens, which ONLY put out 8000K, it seems to me that this fixture alone would not be enough to promote the growth we have come to expect from our lighting.

Sorry for all of the questions, I ask them as much for myself as I do for the customers I will be helping in the future...I take pride in giving the best advise in my area of expertise lol


Joe
 
#180 ·
Just checking in, and replying to your post Joe. Kelvin rating has nothing to do with spectrum. Spectrum generally determines the kelvin rating, but they are not related systems of measurement. Spectrum refers to the intensity of light at certain wavelengths. Wavelengths are the scientific measurement of light waves in nanometers(nm) at the crest of each wave of light, since light travels in waves of harmonic motion like other forms of energy like sound and electromagnetic radiation. So basically spectrum is the measurement of light intensity.

Now Kelvin or color temperature is the measurement of visible light emitted by a black body radiator as far as I understand. I don't fully understand the concept of kelvin, but I equate it more to light visible to the eye. Essentially color temperature is a measurement of visible color, as compared to spectrum which is a measurement of light intensity in the entire electromagnetic spectrum.

Now, another problem with trying to use kelvin as a base for usable radiation: the rating varies widely. Two bulbs with a completely different spectrum that emit completely different PAR ratings can have exactly the same color temperature. One can be just awful for plants and the other could be very good. This is also more readily apparent if you look at graphical representation of the kelvin color temperature scale. 10,000k can be pink, white, blue, blue-green, or any color inbetween. It's a fairly inaccurate way to try and measure visible light, and i actually prefer to use chromacity to try and accurately describe things, though it's a bit harder to use universally because color temperature is already prevalent on the consumer side of the lighting industry.

A good example of the difference here: The x-ray spectrum, which we utilize for the common x-ray imaging in hospitals, is far outside of the visible spectrum. You couldn't rate something like this in terms of kelvin because the spectrum emits no visible light. This is the same with the commonly known infrared and ultraviolet light spectrums. The others that are less though of as being light are gamma rays, radio waves, and microwaves. There are some pretty crazy concepts out there, gotta love college physics and chemistry. Time to go take some more derivatives that I will never use when programming!
 
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