Any 3W LED stars would work..
But if you want to match the wiring then here:
LEDs - Solderless LEDs - Rapid LED
Best guess it those are royal blue and cool white..
so just replace the blues w/ lower K whites..
Which ones will depend on your tolerance to a color tone..
driver is constant current at 700mA..
no real need to go fancy colors on a one string small array really.
guessing this will put you at around 5000K (really making a lot of assumptions here but it will be close)
using warm whites
If you want cooler go 'neutral white" for the 5.
Should put overall color temp at 6000K
Solderless CREE XP-G2 Neutral White LED - Rapid LED
The k ranges of the CREE are pretty broad so it is hard to be more than just "in the ballpark"..
your initial array lacks a lot of reddish spectrum.. obviously..
The yellower-orange the phosphor coating on the white the "warmer" the LED..
high k whites will be very pale yellow..
Oh and since they are driven at constant current, you can bypass the blues (remove them) and just use the remaining whites as a color reference..
Looks like you need to use at least 3 in series for the driver though.. (8V minimum or it will probably misbehave
)
ONE other thing:
Consider changing to an LDD driver LDD-HW @ 700mA (another $7 plus a power supply (36V)).
The 5V PWM dim circuit is better than 0-10v unless you have an Apex or another 0-10V output controller...
Well a 10V wall wart and pot works ok..
Problem is it doesn't exactly "dim to zero".. Either stays mildly lit or "jumps" from 10% to zero.
Best practice would be to add a timer to kill the driver.. long story..
You could increase or decrease your drive current as well..though not really necessary..
(350-1500mA but wouldn't go over 1000mA to be honest.
Don't forget thermal paste for the star board back